A long, but successful, day in Singapore

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I had set my phone alarm for 5:45 this morning but I beat that by 45 minutes. It was a very muggy night anyway, not good for sleeping, and even the small air conditioner could not help. So why not get up. Have a couple cups of coffee. Go through my Internet routines. And it was time to walk to Harbour Bay. In the humidity. In long pants. With socks and shoes. Carrying my pack.

Shirt, of course, was soaked by the time I reached the Prima Ferries ticket counter. This whole process was starting to feel routine, even though I did go over every detail in my mind the night before. I worry too much.

I arrived at the ferry terminal with the planned 15 minutes to spare and had a quiet ride to Singapore. When you buy a round-trip ticket, you pay half at both ends. So I only paid half when I bought the ticket and would have to visit the Prima Ferries ticket counter in Singapore to get my return ticket, when I pay the second half of the fare (about Rp500,000, or $42).

The security check is perfunctory (I’m not even sure their metal detectors actually work.) but you can get snagged at the immigration desk. When you enter the country, you fill out a three-section, perforated card with your name and such. Immigration takes two of the segments and, apparently, you’re supposed to keep the third section for when you depart the country. I keep forgetting this part. I don’t have any idea why it is so important but I  was almost deported when I returned from the Caribbean because, silly me, I had not saved that third segment. Who’d a thunk, half a world away, I would need to save that stub?

Anyway, I’m apparently in a writing mood, having been away from my computer all day, so this may take awhile. First, I forgot to mention that my taking a shower at 5:15 am blew the breaker again, even though I shut down the frig and fans. Soap and cold water in the dark. Gotta love it. I found the breaker.

Before I forget (because he’s rubbing against my legs for attention), Hati is not a fan of being cooped up in this small apartment all day.  Thankfully, he didn’t tear the place apart, although he did a pretty good job on a roll of toilet paper just before I got up at 5. It’s the only time I’ve known him to use his claws, but he loves those toilet rolls. I digress.

Oh, let me digress once again. It’s kind of scary when you actually meet someone who reads your blog. Yes, a lot of my friends read it (or at least subscribe), but meeting a stranger who likes what you write is strange. Apparently, I write the way he feels, or something like that. That’s what he said when he walked over to the table where I was having a beer with a friend. He knew the friend. A Norwegian, and that is all I will tell about him. I promised.

Back to Singapore. The ferry left at 7:30 and would take about 45 minutes. Plus you have the delay at immigration in Singapore, where there is often a crowd in line. I’m going to bypass this delay in the future as I’m getting a “smart card” that will allow me to go through a different, barely used line (in both Batam and Singapore) where I insert the card and go. This will come in handy, as I need to go to Singapore (or any other country) every 60 days under my new business visa. The card is not cheap, though – Rp1.75 million, or about $150.

Today, there was only our ferry at Singapore immigration and I was in and out in a few minutes. Taxi to the Furama Hotel, City Centre, was Singapore $8 ($6.50), plus tip. The travel agency I was looking for (Maju Travel Services) was inside this building, along with several other travel agencies. Here, I need to backtrack.

First, travel agencies are intimately involved in this Indonesia passport and visa business. Certain agencies are given a license to represent people like me and expedite the visa process. They, essentially, get a place in the front of the line. And for this service, they are well rewarded. I don’t know how these agencies are granted this excellent business, but I’m guessing it’s political patronage, or family, or bribery. At the end of the day today, as I watched the batch of revised passports being dumped on the agency’s desk, I realized how lucrative this business is. There were at least 40 passports in the pile, 40 people or companies that had paid a fee (mine was SG$250 – US$200). If they all paid the same fee as me, that’s SG$40,000, or $32,00. Much of that goes to the government, but the remainder makes for some nice daily business. I’ll get back to this process later.

My second backtrack is to the night before. I finally received a call Monday about my visa but the paperwork had been sent to my Smiling Hill account. Once we straightened that out I had to call the travel agent in Singapore to let him know I was coming the next day. This was after 5 pm, 6 pm his time. At this point, I’m not sure if I have to pay the agent SG$250 AND the Indonesian Embassy SG$250, or if it was just SG$250, or somewhere in between. This was important because I needed to ATM money in Singapore and I have a fairly low limit on how much I can take out in one day. SG$500 would not be possible.

Back to my story. A young guy at the travel agency helped me right away, found my paperwork, took my passport and photo, and my SG$250 (question answered) and told me to come back at 4:30 pm; it was 9:30 am. Six hours to kill. What to do without spending too much money.

First, food was needed. Two cups of coffee only get me so far. I should note here that I’ve done this visa run before. When I first arrived, Doug and I took these same steps in getting my first work visa for Smiling Hill. It had been 2 1/2 years, but everything was familiar. I remembered that we went into a skyscraper basement close to the travel agency for food. Then, I had my first roast duck and noodles.

I found the same food court, in the same basement, in the same skyscraper, but being breakfast time I found a stall that had a picture of two sunny-side-up eggs. “Breakfast, sir,” was the word from the other side of the counter. “Two hard-boiled eggs, toast and coffee?” “Sounds good, ” I replied. The eggs were soft boiled, all runny in a small bowl, but I was hungry and they were good, altough difficult to eat with the baby spoon I was provided, the eggs slithering over the sides of the spoon. The toast had a wonderful sweet butter, honey or brown sugar in it. The coffee was instant (they definitely prefer that here) but dark and very good. SG$3.40. Interestingly, the mall in this building, as well as almost all the offices surrounding the food court, were for travel agencies. A big travel agency mall, so to speak.

I was on Victoria Street, maybe the most prominent road in the Singapore commercial district. The section I was on was 6 lanes with a wide island divider, distinguished by the bushes and trees it supported. Along this route are numerous skyscrapers, all with retail on the ground floors facing the street, some even with malls inside. Lots of food, too, including many of America’s most famous – McDs, Burger King, KFC, Pizza Hut, Popeyes, and even Chili’s. And don’t forget Starbucks. Jeez, SG$6 for an iced coffee. I passed.

With no plan in mind, I began walking in one direction, not knowing where I was going or what, if anything, would be there. It was hot and muggy, and as you can see by my photos, hazy. Having walked at least a mile in one direction, I came upon a bus station with a wall map. What I really was walking for, looking for, was Western herbs and spices. I haven’t been able to find even basil in the Batam stores, much less oregano or thyme, but I knew there was at least one store, in Tanglin Mall, where I might find them. Trouble is the last time I was there I took a taxi and I had no idea where it was. As I walked along, and discovered a mall within a building, I would seek out any grocery stores. All I found were Chinese herbs. Go figure. Singapore. Chinese herbs.

The map I found had Tanglin Road on it, but it looked a long way in the opposite direction. But it did run into Victoria Street. So I reversed course, passed the Furawa Hotel and kept going. At one point, I stopped at a McDonald’s for a Diet Coke and fries. Then more walking. I never did reach Tanglin Road. My bad knee finally said “Enough” and I headed back.

There was still nearly 3 hours to wait my passport to return, and it was lunch time, so I set my sights on the same food court where I had breakfast. I wanted roast duck and noodles again. Here’s where I explain why I don’t have my passport.

When you go through these visa processes, you have the option of going to the Indonesian Embassy yourself or using an agent to go there for you. If you go yourself, you are one of a crowd of people, each of whom takes a ticket to get in line. If you are lucky, your paperwork is filed that day, and you will only have to stay in Singapore for one or two days before you go back to retrieve your passport and visa. Hotels in Singapore are very expensive. New York City expensive. And since you don’t have your passport, you can’t leave Singapore.

An agent, on the other hand, takes your paperwork to the embassy for you. They get in the front of the line when they arrive. You pay your fee by 11 am and you get your visa and passport back the same day by 4:30 pm. You save money by giving them SG$250. Not to mention the hassle, and the two unproductive days in Singapore. This is the process, and cost, I will have to go through when I renew the visa after one year. Next time, however, I need to have a better plan for what to do with that 6 hours waiting.

I returned to the agent more than an hour early and just sat around. Finally, all the passports being handled that day were brought in, dumped on a desk, sorted and I was finally asked what nationality mine was. It was handed to me and I was off for a taxi, which, for some reason, was SG$2 less than getting there.

I had some time at the ferry terminal, so I sought out the supermarket there, still in hopes of finding my herbs. No luck, but they did have some reasonably priced bacon (hard to get in Batam), so I grabbed a couple pounds, only to find out at the register that the prices were much higher and that I had seen the prices for smaller packages. No bacon for me when it costs $16 a pound.

As I become an old hand at the ferry process, getting my return ticket was not a problem and the ride back was so routine (and I was so tired) that I took a nap almost the entire 45 minutes. And given how much I had already walked, I opted for a taxi back to my apartment. I had earned it anyway.

The Malacca Strait

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U.S. Embassy, Singapore

Several years ago, I had what I thought was a once-in-a-lifetime to visit Singapore. It was an all-expense-paid media junket paid for by the Singapore government that I earned an invitation through my position as editor and publisher of Communications News. I flew on Singapore Air out of New York. The flight was 17 hours non-stop, over Europe and Asia. The return flight was also 17 hours over the Pacific, meaning I flew around the world. I never thought I’d see Singapore again. Now, I’m a 45-minute ferry ride from the city and have visited it several times from Batam, mostly for meat runs for the restaurant. My latest journey was to retrieve my new passport – and to mule back meat supplies.

Singapore

Singapore

The strait that separates Singapore and Indonesia is sometimes called the Strait of Singapore but is actually titled the Strait of Malacca. The ferry service has recently changed hands, with the Berlien Wave Master ferries being replaced by somewhat older boats from Prima Ferries and BatamFast. We’ve been covering the change, along with sharing the new ferry schedules, with our newsletter audience, who often make trips to Singapore for shopping or for plane connections. My need to replace my passport (and the corresponding need for meat supplies) meant we were able to get a first-hand experience with the new ferry service – twice.

When the U.S. Embassy e-mailed me that my new passport was ready to be picked up, we scheduled a trip. Doug, Sarijan and I grabbed our empty suitcases, booked our ferry tickets the night before and were off on a two-decker catamaran in the morning. Doug and Sarijan also carried backpacks but I was relieved of this duty this trip because of my still-healing knee. The previous ferries were totally enclosed, so this was the first time I could go outside and take pictures of the crossing. Mostly what you see are a lot of ships – a lot of ships.

LNG tanker

LNG tanker

First, we made a short trip to Chinatown, where Doug buys kitchen supplies from a Chinese wholesale store. We needed some pizza pans. Then we took a long taxi ride to the Jurang area of Singapore, mostly an industrial and distribution center. Here, we routinely go to two meat wholesalers located on the same street. We pick up large slabs of bacon and whole hams and sausages at one place, Rudi’s, and then walk across the street to QB’s for lamb, beef slabs, cheese, more bacon. Fully loaded up, we grabbed a taxi and headed for Tanglin Mall, which is about 200 yards from the U.S. Embassy.

At the mall, we had a “fast food” lunch at the food court. There are no McD’s or Pizza Huts or other what Americans consider fast food places in this court. There are about 15 different food stalls selling various styles of Oriental food – Japanese, Korean, Thai, Chinese. I chose Japanese, ordering ebi furai (fried shrimp) and noodles in a brown liquid. Very tasty. And only about $4. Much better than a burger and fries (but I sure do miss bacon cheeseburgers U.S. style).

While Doug and Sarijan went to the grocery store at the mall for some specialty items, I walked to the embassy. On the way, I snapped a picture of the fortress-like building and was promptly told picture-taking was not allowed. It was then I noticed all the signs saying no picture taking, but I had my shot anyway. Interestingly, the British consulate right next door had no such picture-taking restrictions.

Penguin ferry headed to Batam

Penguin ferry headed to Batam

The embassy allows you to pick up documents, such as passports and visas from 3-3:30 every

day except Thursday. There was no one waiting outside so I entered right away, surrendered my camera and phone, walked up the ramp and got in line. Did not take long and I had my new passport. I have to keep my old one, though, at least until Jan. 18, as it has my work visa embedded in it. Speaking of which, my one-year work permit expires in January. Wonder if they will want me to stay on. If not, I’m on the road again – without a job.

Before I forget, we celebrated Thanksgiving here – although we did it a week late at the restaurant. For some reason, we thought the holiday was on the 29th and planned a big deep-fried turkey feast, complete with cranberry sauce brought over from Singapore. We learned of our mistake on Thanksgiving and promptly retooled our dinner to a post-Thanksgiving Thanksgiving. We didn’t expect much business but did some marketing anyway. We ended up with a nice turnout and went through two turkeys, which we bought in Batam. There was even talk that maybe we should turn the mistake into an annual event. The turkey dinner was awesome but Putrie missed out. She was in Singapore with her boss most of the week. Now, it’s on the Christmas. Hope we get that date correct.

Looking back at Batam and the McDermott febrication yard

Looking back at Batam and the McDermott febrication yard

Oil rig platform being built off Batam

Oil rig platform being built off Batam

ship front

Old ships like these are everywhere in the strait

Old ships like these are everywhere in the strait

Container barge and tug

Container barge and tug

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LNG tanker

LNG tanker

LNG tanker

LNG tanker

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Ship and oil storage in Singapore

Ship and oil storage in Singapore

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Container ship

Container ship

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Part of the Singapore skyline

Part of the Singapore skyline

Funky curved architecture

Funky curved architecture

gondolas

Too high up for me

Too high up for me

The boarding signs at the Singapore ferry terminal

The boarding signs at the Singapore ferry terminal

Ferry passengers wait in singapore

Ferry passengers wait in singapore

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skyscrapers

Wavemaster ferry

Wavemaster ferry

skyscrapers.curvedtug.bridge